INTRODUCTION:
A huge structure that catches everybody’s attention as soon as they enter Leh city is none other than Leh Palace or Lechen Palkhar. This is still the highest building of Ladakh standing high on top of the Namgyal hill. The palace blend so well with its tawny background that seems it just has evolved from it. Palace was made at the highest point so as to get the whole view of the Leh city and I myself got mesmerized by the view of Leh city from the palace. If you want to know more about Lechen Palkhar- Astonishing Leh Palace of the Himalaya, in detail read the full blog till the end.
APPROACH:
The palace is approached through very interesting narrow pathways of old Leh town. While walking through those streets you can still feel the essence of old historical town. There are traditional buildings made with stone and mud, also one small tunnel like passage that you cross on the way to reach the palace. All these traditional architecture take you to the older times and made you think like you had travelled back to that era of monarchy.
HISTORICAL BACKGROUND:
Leh palace is also known as Lechen Palkhar which means ‘Victory Palace of Leh’ and architectural masterpiece belonged to the Namgyal dynasty, the second dynasty of Ladakhi rulers.
The foundation of the palace was laid by the founder of the Namgyal dynasty, Tsewang Namgyal but it was completed under the supervision of King Sengge Namgyal in 17th century.
Picture Credits: ASI (Archeological Survey of India)
Palace was occupied till the time of Dogra invasion (1834-40) after which the royal family shifted to Stok palace. Since then the palace remained abandoned, due to which decay began and both manmade and natural factors played equal roles. It was in the ruined state when Archeological Survey of India declared the monument of National importance in the year 1982.
Picture Credits: Stok Palace Heritage Hotel
ARCHITECTURE AND PLANNING OF THE PALACE:
Leh palace is an architectural masterpiece and architecture of the Leh palace is very different compared to other palaces of India. The style and construction of Lechen Palkhar is simple yet elegant.
SITE PLANNING OF THE PALACE:
The whole complex consists several buildings other than palace building but palace being the main building has been placed at the highest elevation point and other buildings are at lower level. Buildings like Stupa, Gompa, Minister’s house, Munshi’s House and house of Gods are the part of the palace complex. Given below is the google earth image of Leh palace complex which shows the location of the palace and other buildings.
Munshi House: The Munshi house was once the residence of the Togoche family, secretary to the king, and dates to around the same time as the construction of the palace.
PLANNING OF THE PALACE:
Lechen Palkhar- Astonishing Leh Palace of the Himalaya, royal building comprises of nine levels. There are over hundred rooms in the palace complex, however purpose of only few of considerable importance is known.
LEVEL 1-2:
The two lower levels served as store and foundation of the structure, lowest floor is also said to be housed the stable. Palace is entered from the eastern elevation through an elaborately embellished wooden portico gate known as singe- sgo (the lion gate) at level two, giving access to upper levels.
LEVEL 3:
Level three is supposed to have rooms for cooks, staff, helpers and servants. At the end of corridor a third level a flight of steps leads to the fourth level. The floor starts through a corridor which is quite dark and presently artificial lighting has been used but only one big hall is accessible in this floor which acts as museum (by Archeological Survey of India) which display important monuments of the country.
LEVEL 4:
Level fourth consists of an open courtyard which is known as Khatok chenmo, a platform used for carrying out social and cultural activities (song recital, music and dance) in honor of the royal family. North West corner of the Khatok chenmo leads to the royal shrine.
LEVEL 5:
The hall of audience known as Tak chen where the ministers and other members met is located in the south east corner at level five but now the hall has been converted into museum (by Archeological Survey of India) which displays various historical monuments of Ladakh.
LEVEL 6:
The living quarters of the royal family and a large kitchen were situated on level six and this floor is more organised, lavish and systematic in comparison to the other floors.
LEVEL 7:
Level 7 is official ceremonial level which comprises of royal apartment and chamber (Throne room) of the king and all these spaces in the palace are not open for visitors and they have kept all them private.
LEVEL 8:
The level eight has total seven rooms used for ancillary services in the north east corner. Views of Leh city from this floor are spectacular with Leh city view in the front and Shanti Stupa at the back side.
LEVEL 9:
On the topmost level which is the ninth level there is a single room dedicated to “Gurtha” the protector deity of royal family. The floor is not accessible due to private reasons.
CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUE OF PALACE:
Construction technique of the palace is quite simple but unique. Ladakhi buildings also follow the same construction patterns in term of the massive masonry walls. The basic structure is made with the combination of stone and dried mud bricks along with timber columns and beams supporting a flat earth roof. Finishing of the building is done with mud or clay plaster.
MATERIALS USED IN PALACE:
The palace has been made with the locally available materials such as stone, sand, timber (Juniper, willow and popular), sun dried mud bricks and markalak (waterproofing clay). These materials have been brought from the neighboring villages in and around Leh, mainly Phyang and Sabu.
INTERIORS AND EXTERIORS OF PALACE:
EXTERIORS:
The most impressive feature of the palace is the high quality stonework visible in the sharp edged corners and the gently tapering wall with horizontal timber lacing which prevents vertical cracks in the structure. Size of the windows increases from a mere slit at lower level to highly decorated overhanging balconies at upper level.
THE LION GATE: Special attraction is the main entrance gate of the palace which lies on the East side. Gate consists of elaborated wooden porch, carved brackets and three lions in order to show the power of the king Sengge Namgyal. The Interesting fact about wooden lion in the center is that during older times it could be moved inside and outside of its small window/niche with the help of some roped mechanism.
There are numerous courtyards and terraces in the palace building which act as buffer spaces, also the views from these spaces of the Leh city and its surrounding areas are spectacular.
INTERIORS:
The palace interiors are simple not much ornamented as compared with other forts and palaces of India. But this simplicity speaks much about the climatic oriented designing and use of locally available materials.
The wooden roofing has been done with stems of popular tree supported by wooden columns and beams structure, Also the flooring is made in wood with different bond patterns. Doors with jaali patterns designed in order to separate different spaces. At level 5, which act as the exhibition hall presently has very interesting skylight component which helps natural day light enter the space. Also walls of the same hall have paintings which have been restored by ASI (Archeological Survey of India). These paintings are made in beautiful patterns with the help of natural colours.
RENOVATION AND CONSERVATION OF THE PALACE:
After the invasion of Dogra dynasty the king moved out of Leh, the palace got abandoned completely. With lack of maintenance the structure of the palace slowly started decaying.
The palace was not in quite good condition when ASI (Archeological Survey of India) took over it in 1991. In 1995 ASI started with its renovation plans with some minor repairs to the structure and in 1998 the major renovation work got started. Today the palace has been fully restored and I would like to say that ASI has done a tremendous job by infusing the new life in this historic monument and reviving the glory of the palace. You can judge the same after looking at this before and after renovation photographs given below.
ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY PALACE BUILDING:
The palace is a vernacular building, made with locally available materials like stone, mud, sand and timber.
- The planning of the building is done according to the harsh climate of Ladakh:
- Walls are made thick by using stone and further the thick layer of mud/clay was plastered around the walls, in order to keep the spaces warm from inside during winters.
- The openings/windows designed for the apartments of other living spaces of the palace are good enough in sizes so as to gain sun heat as much as possible during winters.
- Terraces, balconies and courtyards have been planned in the palace building to achieve the thermal comfort during harsh cold.
CONCLUSION: Lechen Palkhar- Astonishing Leh Palace of the Himalaya
This is one of the best examples of Restoration and conservation project I have came across. ASI (Archaeological Survey of India) has done an incredible job. Its is our nation’s job to preserve our historical monuments in good state as they are the invaluable assets of our country. Also we need to learn from these historical heritages that vernacular buildings can be also high rise and sustainable too. It just need good care and maintenance.
If you liked this blog Lechen Palkhar- Astonishing Leh Palace of the Himalaya, please let me know through your comments. Please share it with other people who are passionate about architecture and design. Contact us in case of any queries and also read my previous blogs related to architecture and travel. Thank you.
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